Wrapup

Here’s a summary of the whole installation. I’m happy with the Reolink cameras and the recording system. I wish the motion detection worked better, but I don’t think any of the brands have a better solution using HD camera feeds. I will have to look at proximity sensors. I have have bought a simple one and I have built one from scratch that I need to figure out how to add it into the whole security scheme. I’d like to be notified when a person comes to the front door, and when the mailman is delivering the mail, and if someone opens the side gates. Then I could look at the cameras myself.

The NVR works pretty well, but doesn’t let you plug in a keyboard, only a mouse. I had to turn off the need to enter your password to make changes because it’s so slow to ‘type’ with a mouse. The iPhone app works great, and does everything the NVR interface does. I can get all 4 cameras running live on one screen.

On a PC, there is client application which streams full screen really nicely. It’s a little hard to get the playback working however. You must first click on the Playback button, then on the little camera icon that looks more like a rear-view mirror. Then you have to drag the camera onto one of the 4 window panels. Nothing happens until you click the play arrow on the bottom left. Still, nothing may happen. You have to be sure you have video being recorded. The phone app seems to work a lot better for this. On both the phone and the PC client, you can save local snapshots or movies. Having motion detection turned on will flag the times on the timeline where there was motion.

But as I have said, motion detection is sketchy. Here is what gets picked up.

Spiderweb blowing in the wind.

Moths show up really well at night. I like the glowing red rings that show you when the IR night vision is turned on, but it makes these bugs really shine. Also, when the IR lights turn on and the cameras switch to night vision, it triggers the motion detection.

I have installed Home Assistant on a Raspberry Pi. It links into the NVR to grab snapshots every 20 seconds. I can’t seem to get real time video yet. I think that using Home Assistant is the way to get the proximity sensor working. I do use it to turn off the monitor screen in the garage every night and turn it back on in the morning.

You can see that Home Assistant knows that the TV is on and how much power the solar panels are generating. I can turn off the Security Monitor from this dashboard also.

I spent many fun and frustrating hours installing the cameras. I hope it can work out to be a little more useful in the future.

Third Camera in the Front

I had one more camera and no good place to put it. I want to cover the side door, but the neighbors would be staring back at a camera placed at the front of the house looking toward the backyard.

Meet the neighbors. Nope.

I would also have a problem getting the wiring done on this side of the garage since there are cabinets on the inside. Furthermore, I would like the option of putting cameras at the other corner looking back this way, but there is no attic above that corner of the house and I’m not crawling around in the basement.

The one thing left that we wanted to cover was the third car that the kid’s park down the street. We have lots of little leaves and olives dropping onto the street right in front of our house, so it’s not the best place to leave a car. The driveway camera doesn’t cover the area down the street. Installing another camera off the garage looking back over the cars will be the easiest position, so that’s where it’s going. It will be installed just like the first camera was. Here’s the area inside the garage.

Notice the nice installation job the electrician did when he installed the carraige lights.

Things went pretty quickly with this installation.

I used these red plastic protectors so that the wires wouldn’t be cut by the flashing.
The cables are hardwired to the camera.

I had to carve a curved gully in the block of wood like I did with the first camera and somehow managed to avoid getting a picture of it again. But I got everything to fit.

The neighbors get their driveway watched too.

This view lets us watch cars all the way to the end of the block. With 4K resolution, it’s actually possible.

All 3 cars observed.

Front Porch Camera

While I was up in the attic I surveyed the area at the far end of the front porch. I’d have to wade through the insulation dust and find a good place to punch a hole in the wall, or one up through the ceiling of the porch. I had such good coverage of the front, I decide that what I really needed was a camera on the front door and there are two sides to the porch, so I went with the easier side and drilled a hole in the garage wall. This ended up being two feet from where I wanted to put the NVR control unit. I had a hard time getting all the wires all the way through this whole, which wasn;t exactly straight for some reason. The power and reset cables went down the inside of the wall and I had to fish them out. You don’t want to drop the cables before you attach the camera and you can’t attach the camera until you get the cables through the wall. this is a problem I had with every camera install.

Even pointing at this angle the camera’s wide angle can get the front door in the view.

I used lots of silicone to insulate this camera. I used one of the 1 foot cables to connect this camera to the NVR. I found a DVD shelf at Home Depot for under $15 that I installed next to the Data Cabinet. I used a bit of hook and loop strapping to loosely attache the unit to the shelf.

NVR shelf and monitor.

I like the monitor here because I can see through the garage door when I hear things outside. I will probably attach the monitor better because it’s not earthquake proof, but I had an extra monitor anyway.

The cable for this camera comes in just above the NVR.

He tried to ring the doorbell, but it failed and he took the package away with him.

Backyard Security Camera

The back of the house has a section that extends outward so that there is no one place that a camera can be set in order to cover all doors and windows. But the next best placement is on the corner looking back at the door. It’s a good place because it covers almost all of the patio and the back door, and it’s easy to install and wire. The telephone cable gets in the way, but it also provides coverage the the rats as they come and go. Yes, the rats. I think we have the attic protected pretty well. Within the first few minutes of watching the first nighttime image I caught this guy balancing on the wire.

The camera was easy to install on the side of the rafter. It was 17 feet up there so I wasn’t so worried about protecting the cable. I started drilling through the wire ventilation mesh and when I got resistance, I climbed higher to look in there with some light and found that there was a board covering up the bottom of the the vent hole. And I was afraid of blocking airflow.

I made a hole where the cable could go and attached two Ethernet cables to the end of an 8 foot drill bit, one that you use to drill down through walls to install new outlets. I pushed the rod and cables way up into the attic so that I wouldn’t have to crawl out the the edge. This actually worked well. I wanted to run an extra cable in case I wanted to put another camera up there pointing the other way. i actually might use it to install a temperature sensor.

Then came many days of super hot weather. So the attic work would have to wait. The next cool morning I could get up there. I spent some time trying to shove cables up the crack in the wall in the garage where the electrician had run all of the Ethernet cables when we remodeled. I didn’t want to make it much bigger, or make a new hole. This area of the garage is above the washer and dryer, the sink and the hot water heater. Kind of hard to get up there. I stuck a 15 foot Ethernet cable and a new length of cable up the hole in case the finished cable I was going to be running didn’t reach. I went up to the attic and spent some exasperating time up there climbing under and over and through holes with mask and goggles and hats and gloves and hoped I would make it down again.

Floating support beams. Notice the doorbell wire that was cut and never repaired?

We have shredded paper fiber insulation blown in to the attic so if you touch any of it be prepared to breath it in for the next 15 minutes. The gap where all the wires go through comes out into the attic under the old roof, so I had to reach through a hole in the roof to get to the old attic. I can almost reach it. This was the most frustrating part of the installation because I had to lie on my belly while on a sloping roof and reach blindly down to a tight hole to retrieve one of a dozen wires. The cable that came with the camera made it all the way through the hole plus 2 feet. I got some 8 wire Ethernet extenders so that the power lines as well as the data lines get passed through. Some cheap female/female extenders only pass the data lines. I pulled the wires through but I accidentally pulled the wire I had sent up on this end instead of the other cable I was pushing down from the attic. This was put there so I wouldn’t have to deal with this in the future. Oh well.

On the outside, I filled in the hole around the cables with silicone caulk. The camera is weatherproof and the cable from the camera goes into the attic. The cases that come with the cables that are to be used to protect the connections do not fit. There is a wide wire strain-relief on the Ethernet cable that gets in the way of the rubber stopper so that you can’t shove the casing all the way in to make a connection. I didn’t fiddle with it since they are all inside anyway.

Kitty cam

Driveway Security Camera

The first thing I had to deal with was that there was a wasp’s nest everywhere i wanted to install a camera. Luckily I had a can of wasp spray and had to deal with them first.

The electrician who installed the new carriage lights decide to re-use the power line for those and cut out the nice motion triggered spot lights. Who knows why. I remember when I installed them, being very lucky running the power lines in the corner of the roof, finding a crack that I could stick the wire through. I tried to get the new Ethernet cable through but the corner is just too far away to get to from the inside. I have cabinets in the garage that prevent me from reaching in there. I did put a longer power wire in the hole and I will re-wire up the old motion detector lights soon. There wasn’t enough room on the same rafter for all these things.

I moved the security camera to the next rafter and discovered that the fascia is metal. I could just see the rafter from inside, but I couldn’t quite reach it.

I made great use of a grabber tool that we had laying around.

The only way to get to the space inside was to bring a ladder inside and close the garage door. Then I had to open the door to get out and bring the ladder back to the front. I did this about 20 times.

The camera has a casing for the Ethernet jack that is 3/4 of an inch in diameter. So all holes must be this wide if they are close to the camera. The normal Ethernet connector will fit in half inch holes or pipes. The trouble is that the camera had two other pig tails with the same length of wire: a power cable and a reset button. This makes it hard to fit the cable through holes and pipes like the PVC pipe I was using to protect the cable. In order to get the camera low enough to peek out from under the eave, I needed to widen the rafter make a place to screw the base to it. I cut some 2x4s into 4 inch lengths. Then I had to carve a path into the inside of the block so that the cable can travel through it protected until it gets into the PVC tube. I used my dremel with a sanding drum to carve a quarter circle from the bottom to the back side.

I connected the camera to the Ethernet cable and ran the other end into the hole. I used the grabber to pull the cable from the inside. The next big problem was to fit the camera’s plug through the PVC and into the hole in the fascia board and string it through the path carved in the 2×4 block and screw the block to the rafter and the base of the camera to the block and the rafter and pull the cable tight (but not too tight) from the inside. All at the same time.

I used a red plastic hole protector thingy to wrap around the wires as they went into the hole in the metal fascia. The casing that goes around the RJ45 plug has a rubber washer/gasket that has a slit in it, but it would have to fit around the strain relief of the Ethernet cable and it really doesn’t work. I will add some silicone caulking around all the edges before I paint the contraption.

Adjusting the view by watching on my iPhone app.

Security Camera Locations

I thought that I could easily add 6 or 8 cameras around the house. But having that much data recorded all day long would slow down the system and cause the 3TB hard drive to have to over write data much sooner. So I tried to figure out the 4 best places to setup cameras.

I went around to every corner of the house and took pictures with my phone, holding it up as high as I could. I then printed these pictures out to examine them. There is a door to the kitchen on the side of the house, but it’s very close to the fence and the neighbor’s patio where they spend a lot of time. I can’t figure out a way to stay neighborly and have a camera pointed right at them. Actually, in the camera setup you can mask out any regions you want to, but they don’t know that.

I thought that the front porch camera should be at the far end of the porch so that we could see people head on walking up to the porch. But the placement of the camera there would mean that I’d have to run a cable through the stucco on the side and along the outside to the porch and around the porch beams. I wasn’t sure I wanted to spend that much time in the attic and on the outside of the walls making it secure and tidy. The other end of the porch is almost as good and, when I installed the NVR in the garage on the other side of the wall, I only needed 1 foot of cable. Maybe next year I’ll put the camera on the other end of the porch.

My first 4 cameras

The first camera installed went up near the driveway where I had installed motion sensor lights before. I wanted to keep the lights so I installed the camera to the next rafter over. This covered the area between the cars in the driveway and much of the street out front.

The next camera was in the backyard, looking over the rear sliding door entrance. This camera watches the cats and the back patio. The family room add-on sticks out farther then the back bedroom, so there is an uncovered window behind the camera, but I can’t figure out any better place. The other corner is outside the family room which has a vaulted ceiling so there is no attic. I’d have to run a cable through the basement or down the length of the outside of the house. Or switch to battery powered wi-fi cameras.

Then I drilled through the stucco wall to the porch camera.

Finally, I installed one more camera in the front, on the other side of the driveway. This covered the cars again, but looking down the street I could pick up the Kid’s car because they park in front of the neighbor’s house. There are no trees there to drop olives and leaves on cars like there is in front of our house. The first camera I installed is now pretty redundant because the other two cameras cover the same area. But it does get a nice perspective between the cars and of the street directly in front of the house.

I’d like to have a camera watching the left side of the house, but we’d watching the wildlife in the dark area along the fence, and also the other neighbors because the cameras have such wide angle lenses.

I think we might consider adding a door bell cam. Some door bell cameras have proximity sensors that are more reliable than the motion detection of the the other cameras. Usually, these are wi-fi cameras and battery powered and have to send pictured to the web. All things i don;t want. What I want is to be notified when someone comes to the front door or when a package is delivered to the porch. Luckily, the Reolink package wasn’t stolen before we got to it.

Reolink POE Camera Installation

https://reolink.com/product/rlk8-800b4/

After extensive research (there’s always more research that can be done) I decided to purchase a self contained security camera kit from Reolink. There are others that are better and more expensive. But I think this will do the job. Did it meet all my requirements? Nope. But it kept me busy for a few weeks installing it and I’m happy with the system.

  • ONVIF compatible – Not completely
  • Cost effective – Under $500
  • Wired – comes with 400 feet of cable
  • Phone app – Actually works pretty good
  • Configurable controls – the central recorder is a black box
  • Expandable – I can add 4 more cameras
  • Low maintenance – It sits on a shelf out of the way

I wanted to get a system that was interchangeable with other systems so I could get a newer cheaper camera in the future, or so I could use my current cameras with a new system. Almost all the mid range systems are proprietary, but I see this as a means for the companies to provide better and cheaper support. I think all the cameras can be used with other systems anyway, they are just not supported this way. I’d have to buy more systems and test them out to find out.

You can spend $1,000 or more on some systems. I was considering getting just cameras and using a PC to run the recording software. BlueIris is a Windows package that you can buy and configure how you want motion detection setup. It interfaces with other security alarm systems. I really wanted to use this because it would be fun to play around with it. But then I had to think about what computer to buy, where to put it. I’d have to buy a hard disk, buy windows to install on it. and let it run all day and night in the garage. I really don’t see that I need that much hassle. The NVR (networked video recorder) is a small quiet box .

There seems to be only one NVR that Reolink sells, whether it’s the 4MP/5MP or the 8MP setup. I had read that the earlier boxes had a noisy fan and I thought I might want to install it inside the house so that I could hook the output to a TV or monitor next to the TV. The box has no fan at all. There is a limit to how much bandwidth there is and 8MP (4K) cameras are sending over lots of high res pictures. I went with the newest hi-def cameras although some of the older cameras had some pretty good color and night-time performance.

I ordered the system directly from the Reolink website. I wanted to be sure and get the right kit and the latest version. The price was the same as on Amazon and they ship from the US. In fact, there is a 10% first time buyer’s discount on top of being on sale, so instead of the regular $529 price I only paid $429. I accidentally entered the wrong email address when I ordered so I didn’t receive any confirmation emails. I created an account on the website and sent a support request in. They got back to me right away said that they couldn’t change the email on the order or reconcile it to my on-line accounts. I ordered it on a Thursday and it arrived on Tuesday. I was very pleased. If you want to order any other cameras then add them to your first order for the 10% discount.

I dumped out the contents and hooked everything up on a table in the garage. I have a TV out there and hooked up the HDMI output on the NVR box. Everything worked first time. The cameras are solidly built and they get a little warm when plugged in. They have 24 IR leds for nighttime viewing that glow a little in the visible spectrum. I like the look because they can be seen at night watching you. One by one I installed the cameras, running the first cables back to my table and TV.

There were lots of little problems to overcome when running wires through your walls and in your attic.

Magnorail™ on the St. Frank Urban Layout

This is a quick page to inform those interested in how I use Magnorail ™ plastic chains underneath my city streets.

Planning worksheet

I’ve created street plan in Photoshop and I can print out new copies if I mess up the street somehow. I’m on my third version of paper card macadam. I’m using Google Street view to grab photos of buildings and then use Photoshop to clean them up. I’m creating 3D versions of buildings in Blender, and then I use Pepakura to unfold the models for printing. Sometimes I use a Cricut vinyl cutter to cut out all the windows for me.

Anyway, here is a movie demonstrating the Magnorail cars in action.

The little N scale cars don’t even have real wheels, but that doesn’t seem to matter. The Bus and the USPS box truck do have wheels that turn. As you can see, I use cylindrical magnets inside each car. The magnets are aligned North to the left and South to the right and match up to the square magnets in the plastic shuttle links in the Magnorail chain below the street. To make sure I have the chain magnets correct, I stick them to the vehicles first and insert them into the chain with the cars pointing the right way.

I very slowly carve out a rectangular hole in the bottom of each vehicle. If I’m using a 5mm magnet, I can make the hole 5mm wide but I have to make sure it’s not quite 5mm from front to back. I’ll make the front and back edges beveled in order to get the magnet low enough to touch the street. If the magnet is rolling, there is very little stutter as it moves along.


The magnet fits in the front seat nicely. There is still room to add a driver.
These cars are cheap, but look pretty good. I can afford to get lots of them.
The magnet must rest in a trough so they sit on the street.
I’ve added a little plank on top because there is too much room inside and the magnet can twist around without it.
This bus has bigger wheels that spin. I had to add a plate underneath to get the magnet on the ground.
A simple sedan.
Many things can be animated.
I’m using a shorter magnet so it fit in between the I beams in the chassis. These magnets are plenty strong, but because they roll there is little drag on the motor and I can get many cars on the road.
This placement is a little too far back so sometimes the front of the truck swings sideways.
I can actually just set the truck on top of a 5mm cylinder magnet in front of the front wheels and that works well, but you can see the magnet.
This page is just a small worksheet and is not the actual layout.
A preview of things to come. Rapid transit is waiting in the tunnel under Mercado St.
Might look a little like this.
This mechanism is upside down. It’s my own Magnochain. This is just a sneak preview, more to come…
Magnorail™ trolley test with N scale Cable Car. The original magnet here is a thin donut shaped disk under the front bench seats. I had to remove it to motorize the car.